
On the Adriatic in Durres, Albania (Photo Credit: Mari Martinez)
Vlore
This weekend we toured to Vlore (Arta’s hometown) and Sarande, both beach communities. The accommodations at Vlore were (let’s just say) less than desirable. Apparently the hotel we stayed at was a really nice hotel under communism, but has since turned into something that resembles what one might find in a scary movie about tourists being abducted in the middle of the night to be sold at auction. The place was falling apart; the rooms were disgusting, with doors that would barely fit the definition. The one perk of the hotel was its beautiful location. It was at the top of a hill overlooking the beautiful Ionian Sea with a huge stone winding staircase down the hill to the seaside and the restaurants down below.
During the afternoon we toured the city’s independence landmarks since from this city, Albania claimed independence in 1912 (the date of November 28 or 29th depends on who is in power at the particular time). Jevi drove us up to the top of one of mountains to view Vlore at sunset and then off to hike up to one of Ali Pasha’s castles overlooking the city and islands. The view was spectacular. After following some sheep back down the mountain to where Jevi was parked, we went back down to the city for dinner. For dinner we ate at the Riviera Restaurant, which is built onto the side of a cliff. We were seated outside on the patio overlooking the gorgeous water and were tempted to stake tents or bedrolls right where we ate. Arta, Jevi, Katie, Jan, and myself all shared spaghetti with sea fruits, salad and a bottle of merlot, which was delicious! It was just a magical evening to say the least. Then reality sunk in when we went back to the Roachtel 3 1/2.
Sarande
Upon getting to Sarande, we attempted to help Jevi find the Hotel Lindi, which we ended up driving past about five times (which is funny since that’s the amount of times he has actually stayed at the hotel...short term memory loss maybe?). We ate lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Ionian Sea with views to die for. After lunch we went back to the hotel to nap and get ready to go out again. Four of us girls (Arta, Katie, Mari and I) went down to the pebble beach where Arta and I attempted to get in the water, but it was just too cold for me. Arta was a trooper though; she swam out a good ways but the cold got the best of her too. We wound up taking a nap on the beach before Toby, Jan, and Barb came strolling along. We all headed back to the hotel and got ready for dinner.
Dinner was especially nice as it was in a preserved castle overlooking the city and seaside. Let me clarify...the place was nice but the service was not. Apparently, in this part of Albania, they don’t know how to delete an entry in a food ordering menu and instead of sharing scallops in lemon and wine sauce, we were given two orders of veal in lemon and wine sauce which we were forced to pay for, and what can you do in a foreign country but cough it up, grunt, and be on your way. The white and red wines made the situation much more tolerable. Dessert was at yet another café built out over the water where we ate gelato and watched the ships lights of Korfu, Greece because yes, we were just that close to it. Dessert was followed by a small get-together on the balcony outside of Katie and Mari’s room. The hotel even gave us a bottle of complimentary local red wine for the festivities. There was a wedding going on somewhere in one of the buildings on the street below so the music and sound of bottles breaking from that added a little soundtrack for us to enjoy.
Butrint
After packing up our things and leaving the hotel (which was fabulous and had the best showers and staff you could ask for!) Jevi drove us to Butrint, an ancient Roman city under excavation. From the 3rd century B.C. to 16 A.D. it contained structures from the Hellenistic, Roman, Late Roman, Medieval, and Venetian eras. The entrance fee was more than we expected (500 LEK), but when you consider that the exchange rate of LEK to U.S.D. is 78:1 you can’t beat that! It was a really great experience. We were able to sneak a picture of Arta standing behind a headless statue of Artemis. If Albania had a better P.R./Tourism department, it would have a ton more tourists, and rightfully so. The historical treasures here are beyond measure and are really a testament to the importance of Albania to European history.
The Blue Eye
On our way to Gjyrokaster (the birthplace of former dictator Enver Hoxa and subject of many books) we stopped at a place called the Blue Eye. The Blue Eye is a place where natural springs send up their gifts in the formation similar to (you guessed it) a blue eye. The water was only 10c but it was beautiful. I have never seen water so clear and blue that it looks like glass. After accidentally stepping in the frigid water, I trekked back to the van with soggy feet to head for the castle in Gjyrokaster and lunch. The van miraculously made it up those narrow, winding, cobbled streets with a scary type of skill only to be parked for a few minutes when the decision was made not to proceed into the castle. We ate lunch overlooking the city and headed back for Tirana. It was a fun but extremely tiring weekend.
Until next time,
Olivia Vanderburg